PART TWO: The UpDo Expedition
Now that you and your bride have built trust, and are ready to do the bridal trial…here are some of the products I use, the tools that I would recommend and how to perform the style.
1. Prep the hair. Some of my students think that if you just use a curling iron and some really strong hairspray, you’re golden. No, no, no…all wrong. It’s really important to prep the hair. With that said, I tell my brides to come with their hair a little dirty (not rolling around on the floor, but not washing it the day of). It gives your hairstyle a little grit, or more hold. Now if they do have somewhat greasy hair, then yeah, shampoo it.
When I prep the hair I use a few different products. Evo, is the product I carry and I absolutely love this stuff!! They are extremely environmentally friendly and the product names are so cute, not to mention it smells deliciously good! Of my products I usually start with the Salty Dog, it’s a type of sea salt spray. You spray this from roots to ends either on dry or wet hair. This helps your hairstyle get grip. Now if you want to have a lot of grip or volume for those clients who have fine or thinning hair, you would first start with a volumizer on the roots, or the Evo Shape Vixen. This is usually used on wet hair and then blow dried (I sometimes mix the two products together.
2. Blow dry the hair 100%. I walked around the salon floor of the school I taught at and constantly checked the clients hair to see if it was completely dried. If I even felt a little coolness or dampness, I would have the student dry it some more. You cannot have an updo last all day if their hair is still a little damp before the actual style.
3. Once the hair is dried, you’re ready to use your hot tools. When I taught my class at the salon and when I was teaching at the school, I always stressed about using hot rollers. They save so much time, you achieve more volume, and they give a softer look. My students were so amazed about the overall look, they started purchasing some of their own and practicing at their school. If you’re ready to commit to hot rollers I would suggest purchasing at least two sets, so you have enough for the entire head. My sections go with the flow of the hairstyle I’m creating and with each section I’m rolling I use a working spray, like Builder’s paradise.
4. When using hot rollers or curling irons, you want to set them on base. Students, you should know what that means and hairstylist, you may need to look the term up. I use the metal prongs for my hot rollers. I usually don’t like using the claw clips as they may create dents or crimps in the hair. Hot rollers, which are a lot quicker to use, take maybe at the most 30 minutes to cool. Once they’re cooled, you are ready to take them out and begin the Fun!
5. Once I take the rollers out I back comb the hell out of it. Don’t create rats nest, just back comb so the hair stands on end. Your hairstyle will last all day and all night if you do this. During this time I will either apply a hair powder, the Haze for Evo, or a dry shampoo for even more grip and a lasting style.
6. Now that you have the entire head backcombed, you’re ready for the styling. When I style for updos I do a lot of wrapping the hair as pictured above. I usually start at the crown grab the hair from both temples, pull it back and twist to create The Bump. Brides love the bump, it looks great when their hair is up and if they’re wearing a veil or crown. After I create The Bump, I’m then ready to work on wrapping the hair.
My classes I show a lot of different techniques, but what it comes down to is just practice, practice, practice. You’ll soon realize that every hairstylist has their own way of updo styling. However, using some of these tips from the part one and two of the UpDo Expedition will help you learn how to prep the hair better, give you some fun product ideas to work with, and hopefully help relieve yourself of some unwanted “Oh God I have a bride to style” stress.
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